Dawn. An intense midnight blue sky is giving way to the deep gold-orange glow of sunrise. Unforgettable. So began an unforgettable visit to the Holy Land as the 19 ‘Melrose Pilgrims’ arrived at St Andrew’s Guesthouse in Jerusalem which would be our home for the next 4 days.

We had been met at Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv (incredibly chic terminal building) by the Rev.Clarence Musgrave of St Andrews Jerusalem even although our arrival was at 3.30am. His enthusiastic guided tour began straightaway, in the pitch dark………… as we set off on the hour or so journey across the plain, leaving the Mediterranean coast & heading up into the hills of Jerusalem.

To our rooms and a bit of sleep to meet up again at lunchtime. Sampled the first of our lovely buffet meals at the Guesthouse and then ready for the adventure to begin.

Thursday 16th March

Our guide on Day 1 was Glenn Witmer. Quite a character. A Canadian, a Mennonite and an elder of St Andrews (the church is attached to the Guesthouse or should that be the other way round) who has lived and studied in Jerusalem for the past few years. The tour began as soon as we stepped outside, before we had even boarded our coach, as St Andrew’s commands a wonderful view across the Old City. The city walls and buildings are built from pale limestone which under the more or less constant sunshine lights up and reflects beautifully. Picture postcard on our doorstep.

Jerusalem (at 2,500ft) is a city built on hills and first it was to the Mount of Olives and the start of our Way of the Cross under the guidance and instruction of Glenn. From the Mount of Olives we had another wonderful panorama of the city and were looking down on the route we were about to trace. Precise locations of events in most cases are uncertain but you know you are close by and are certainly experiencing the terrain, context and climate of Jesus’ time. It was summed up thus - His divinity can be experienced at all times, anywhere; His humanity becomes closer in this land. So to the little church at Beth Phage (opened specially for us) with its biblical murals on all sides and ceiling of handpainted flowers. Said to be where Jesus mounted the donkey for his procession into Jerusalem as commemorated on Palm Sunday. Wending downwards to the Teardrop Church so named as the site where Jesus wept over the City and then into the very peaceful environs of the Garden of Gethsemane before entering the Church of All Nations (or the Church of the Agony). Reminding us of His prayer to His Father “nevertheless not my will but thine be done” .

The day was not over, but particularly as we were in Lent it had been special and reflective, and tomorrow we would move on to the site of the Crucifixion and The Tomb.

En route home - St Peter’s in Gallicantu (Caiaphas the High Priest’s house where Jesus was taken upon arrest. Where Peter denied Him thrice then heard the cock crow…..) and the Upper Room where Jesus had foretold the denial as He took the Last Supper with his Disciples.

All this and Glenn’s wonderful ‘Topol-like’ voice leading us in hymns in the basement-prison of Caiaphas’ house and in the Upper Room. The Mennonites’ (a Protestant denomonation founded in Zurich) tradition of close harmony singing heard to full effect in these old old stone surroundings.

Friday 17th March

On to the coach heading for downtown Jerusalem. Shepherded through a nondescript blue door and into a shabby and dark room. Helped ourselves to scruffy white plastic chairs and waited to see what was happening. Young Israeli man appeared and promised to try and get the lights working. Unsettling.

Although an Israeli Jew himself he then began to outline the status (or perhaps that should be non-status) and plight of the Palestinians. Many examples, but East Jerusalem serves as one. Not just a geographic description, as I previously thought, (say the West End of Glasgow) but resonant with a deeper meaning.

This half of Jerusalem was part of Trans Jordan until taken by the Israelis in the 6 Day War of 1967. Consequently the population was and is Arab. Now, as part of the State of Israel, they are required to pay Israeli taxes and qualify for national insurance. So far so logical. But…. They receive virtually no sewage facilities, refuse uplifts, regular water supplies etc etc. Nor are they granted planning permission and this is where our young speaker comes in. As in any population you need to build, extend, alter dwellinghouses and other buildings. By definition all such construction is deemed illegal by the Israelis and as and when they see fit they move in and demolish. Your property may be left alone or it may not. The resultant effects on the morale, health etc of young and old alike need hardly be spelled out. Especially if you are young you may decide to emigrate from this desperate environment. Not an outcome to which Israel is averse.

Many action groups exist but his particular cause is ICAHD (the Israel Committee Against House Demolitions) who seek by peaceful protest to address this issue both in terms of halting demolitions by using human shields or having the aftermath of demolitions made safe. The Israeli authorities take no such precautions. Battered properties are left as they fall (live electrics, collapsing joists) ……… providing very attractive and dangerous play-areas for adventurous children.

Yesterday was the biblical and the historical; this morning face to face with the modern day realities. After the talk to see an area of East Jerusalem for ourselves. Think deprived, depressing housing scheme and worse. Then nearby to a ‘settlement’ – complete contrast. Like a large modern custom-built ‘new town’ with no expense spared on high quality housing and beautiful landscaping. But……….built on Palestinian land with no permission and no Palestinians permitted to live there. However, generous financial incentives for Israelis to move in. Then the Wall (or in Israeli terms, security fence). This section - 8 metres high of reinforced concrete - ring-fencing Arab East Jerusalem (Israeli) from the rest of the Arab West Bank (Palestinian). Separating Arabs from their nearby families, their nearby hospitals, affecting their jobs, affecting their livelihoods.

Reluctant to make hasty judgements but oppression of the Palestinians on many levels was self-evident.

Then on to Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Memorial Museum) and for some this was the most memorable experience of our visit. Perhaps too there were connections between what is to be witnessed here and the State of Israel’s paranoia with the security fences, walls and checkpoints of this morning.

We then returned to the Old City visiting, with reverence and with other pilgrims of many nationalities, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The focal point of the Christian church, located as it is on what are regarded as the traditional sites of the Crucifixion, the Burial and the Resurrection of Christ. While there, a procession of pilgrims led by the Franciscan Order moved through, worshipping at these final Stations of the Cross. On the roof are found the Ethopian Coptics and the atmospheric Cistern (a deep underground water-supply with fun acoustics).

Our walk home around 5pm took in the Wailing Wall, the focal point of the Old City for Jews with many making their way there to pray, summoned by the blowing of the shoa marking the start of the Sabbath.

Saturday 18th March

Our day off………………….relatively speaking. To the lowest point on the surface of the Earth for some floating in/on ?? the Dead Sea. Warm, relaxing, lovely fun with lots of photos to prove it.

Pausing on the way there to view the caves at Qumran where a local Bedouin shepherd, by complete accident, discovered the first of the Dead Sea Scrolls in 1947.

Also spent time at the majestic Masada. Literally a highlight of the visit. An impressive fort built by Herod the Great atop a huge rock buttress rising c 1200ft above the Dead Sea. Set in most dramatic desert landscape and with its own drama. It was here in AD 72 that a large community of Jewish Zealots killed themselves rather than be taken by the Romans, and to this day it remains an icon of Israel, exemplifying determination to fight to the end against all odds.

Sunday 19th March

Morning Service at St Andrew’s, Jerusalem at 10am and no excuse for being late as it is right on the doorstep of the Guesthouse. A delighted Clarence (The Minister) welcomed us to an unexpectedly packed church. Usual congregation around 30. Today a large coach of American pilgrims together with other visitors from Dumfries & Galloway and from Holland (and I am sure there were other nationalities as well) filled the beautifully cool blue interior. A heavenly blue domed ceiling above the communion table, and down each side long rectangular windows glazed with circlets of stained glass in many hues of blue. The Sermon - “Be holy as He is holy’ - ending after the Benediction with the whole congregation (completely impromptu) breaking into How Great Thou Art! Another memorable moment followed by fellowship and friendship on the terrace over coffee, cakes and cold drinks in the open air. Melrose Parish Church were warmly thanked for bringing out a supply of CH4 Hymnbooks. Melrose Abbey with reference to Robert the Bruce’s Heart is inscribed on a floor-plaque in front of the altar. Many chairs in the Church were donated by a Scottish Congregation so I am sure one of our pilgrims found Melrose. (confession, as a parochial Glaswegian I was too busy searching for one from Pollokshields ……..)

Fond (temporary) farewells to our ‘home’ in Jerusalem and it was all aboard for the coach journey north to Tiberias and the Galilee.

Tiberias

Our base for the next three nights in the Church’s beautifully appointed Scots Hotel. Location superb looking across the Sea of Galilee to the hills of the Golan beyond.

Our journey here had taken around 4 hours along the Jordan Valley Highway, effectively Israel’s eastern border. Almost a feeling that you could reach out and touch the mountains of Jordan on the right hand side, lit up pale pink, in the bright hot sunshine. Among lots of good commentary as we travelled these stayed with me. (1)The Israeli flag (a blue line along top & bottom with Star of David in centre) signifies their aspiration. From ‘shore to shore’ - from the Mediterranean to the Jordan. (2) Palestinians cannot enter or leave Israel by Ben Gurion Airport, Tel Aviv as we did. They have to fly in and out via Amman in Jordan, with all the attendant inconvenience (distance, checkpoints, searches) that entails. Sunday ended with Evening Service at St Andrew’s just across the road from the Hotel. A simple, almost Lutheran interior with some of our hymns sung unaccompanied, to experience the pure acoustic. The service was led by Jen, who is the appointed Reader and her address was very welcoming, warm and enthusiastic.

Monday 20th March

Early morning and by boat (with our hymns echoing across the water) to the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee and Capernaum. Today Jen was our guide. Many of the disciples came from the small fishing towns close to the lake shore and Capernaum has a real feel of authenticity, as there have been serious and extensive archaeological excavations here. Among those a row of fishermen’s cottages (a bit reminiscent of remains of Highland crofts) where I felt a real sense of presence of the time. Fishermen going back and forward from house to shore to boat. Bringing catches ashore. Tending nets. Around this lovely rural area of the Galilee envisaging Jesus going about his ministry. Teaching & preaching, seated down by the shore or in the open air on the slopes which lead down to the lake. Many natural amphitheatres exist and warm and sunny as well.

Other reminiscences of the day. The scent of orange blossom & mimosa. Our group gathered by the Church of the Beatitudes reading aloud the verses of the Sermon on the Mount. Each one deeply meaningful and poetic. Beautiful stained glass inscriptions inside the Church (in Latin) ‘Blessed are the poor in spirit for theirs is the Kingdom of Heaven’……………………

Thence to Nazareth, a very busy town some distance away to the west but still in Galilee. Special as the childhood home of Jesus and it also put in perspective what would be involved in going from there to Jerusalem. A journey south of about 100 miles, say five days on foot. To the modern Church of the Annunciation (more stunning stained glass) marking the site of the announcement to Mary that she would bear the Holy Child. Today serves as the parish church for a large congregation of Roman Catholics and plaques commemorate all the countries who donated to its construction. Yes, Scotland was there represented by an image of Glasgow Cathedral (which suited me. Photo to prove it. ) Lunch was in ‘Nazareth Village’. No not a theme-park, as it sounded at first, but a faithful reconstruction of the village in the time of Jesus. Complete with a little baby donkey only days old. Also a reconstruction of the historic synagogue accurately proportioned, with its symbolism and rites explained well by our guide.

Finally for today to Raineh, a town on our way back to Tiberias. To visit Arab Christians in the Episcopal Church of the Holy Family. Samuel the Pastor and his wife Susan, who told in a measured but most moving way of her family’s history. The persecution they have suffered as Arabs, at the hands of the Israelis. Her father (also an Episcopalian Pastor) driven from his home, forced to live in a refugee camp. Her elderly mother taken from her house at gunpoint. A very special couple and the full account was written by her father and mother in 2003 ( Eagle Books: Auden and Pat Rantisi ‘Blessed are the Peacemakers’).

Tuesday 21st March

From our Hotel we’re looking across the Sea of Galilee (wonderful sunrises) to the Golan Heights. This north-east corner of Israel was our destination. Taken from Syria in the 1967 War it is disputed land, and there remains much evidence of derelict Syrian barracks contrasting with the heavily fortified Israeli barracks of the present day. This against a fertile, green landscape abundant with meadows of flowers - red buttercups, wild anenemones, orchids, more mimosa. As we headed up into the hills we paused to be reminded of the Gaderenes and the swine driven over the cliff into the Sea of Galilee. The interesting link being made between the Roman occupation of the time and symbol - a wild boar.

Our lunch break was to be at Madjal Shams, a Druze town lying at the foot of Mt Hermon (its summit ridge covered in snow). We were almost at the most northern point of Israel. We had been through the Dan Valley (fruit trees & vines in abundance).Passed a massive Israeli listening station. Stopped at ‘propaganda parking place’ (attractive lay-by with viewfinder inviting you to press for commentary - which turns out to be about the heroics of brave Israel soldiers etc etc etc). What you are actually looking down on is the smashed & flattened Syrian (as was) large town of Kuneitra. Not cleared, not landscaped, just left in its ruined state, providing its own commentary.

After lunch back via Caesarea Philippi, a source of the Jordan with its cool and soothing springs. Where Jesus (Matt 16) during his ministry and with his passion and death still to come, says to Peter ‘upon this rock I will build my church’.

Then thoughts of Peter again as we ended the day back on the shores of Galilee at the Church of St Peter’s Primacy, with its lovely tranquil setting right by the water’s edge. A very memorable spot. Time to sit in the little cove and reflect on Jesus’ words to Peter after His Resurrection upon his return to Galilee. ‘Feed my lambs. Feed my sheep. (and again) Feed my sheep.’

Wednesday 22nd March

Before setting off on our return to Jerusalem, Alistair Bennett gave us a most informative tour of the Scots Hotel known locally and affectionately as the “Scottie” The history of the buildings. The work and outreach of Dr David Torrance who established the original Hospital on the site. Anecdotes of the high regard in which Dr Torrance was held in Tiberias. The recent project which has modernised and upgraded the hotel (very tastefully and sympathetically). Future plans including naming one of the function rooms ‘The Melrose Room’ with two prints of Melrose presented to the hotel management by William Windram, our local Provost.

Having travelled from Jerusalem north to Tiberias along the Jordan Valley , the round trip back took us along a western route. Through Afula and Tulkram. Seeing Mt Tabor (a possible location of the Mount of Transfiguration). Nazareth in the distance to our right . Across the plain of Megiddo and reminded of its other name, Armageddon……. As we get closer to Jerusalem new sections of the Wall again become evident, despite Israel’s attempts at ‘landscaping’.

Back at St Andrew’s, Jerusalem where we all felt ‘back home’ - with a free afternoon to explore the sights, sounds and smells of the souk and all the varied Quarters of the Old City.

Thursday 23rd March

Pre-breakfast 7.15am start. Why ?

Access to The Dome of the Rock is very restricted, so this time of day was recommended as a possible opportunity. The golden Dome (the latest re-gilding in 24ct gold financed by the King of Jordan) dominates the skyline of the Old City and draws the eye like a magnet, so excitement at our chance to see it up close. Within the Walls of the Old City and nearby, we had already visited the principal Christian site, The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. And the principal Jewish site, The Wailing Wall. Now the principal Muslim site on a peaceful sunlit morning. The magnificent building, its outer walls covered in gleaming mosaic tiling, sits atop a great masonry platform once the site of the Jewish Temple. So orthodox Jews would not wish to walk on the site as they may be treading unwittingly on the Holy of Holies.

To further complicate matters (after all this is Israel) the Wailing Wall is not a remnant of The Temple as such but in fact a retaining wall shoring up the temple platform. All in all fascinating history. Returning to St Andrews we passed the Golden Gate the one sealed gate of the Old City. In the Jewish tradition it is the gate by which the just will enter on the Day of Judgement, hence to be buried near here is a treasured Jewish ambition. In the Christian tradition many believe that Jesus entered the city by this gate on Palm Sunday and will again enter here at the Second Coming.

To Bethlehem

Only 5 miles from Jerusalem but as in the West Bank, serious Israeli checkpoints on entry and exit have to be endured. Inconvenient for us but nothing compared to the delays, searches and general indignity that Palestinians go through.

The feel of a busy, market town. Shutters of shops and houses all painted green. A traditional Arab colour scheme in honour of the Prophet Mohammed. In among the modern buzz of cars and lorries a shepherd negotiates the traffic followed by his herd. We see an Arab family working in their garden, ploughing with a horse and harness. First to the Shepherds’ Field from whence they looked up and saw the Star of Bethlehem. Maybe not from this precise location but easy to visualise the topography of the time from the fields around us. Marked by a church designed to look like a stylised shepherd’s tent. Souvenir sellers everywhere still trying to offload mementos marked Millennium 2000. Then to the Church of the Nativity with the large expanse of Manger Square in front. The town of Bethlehem is not picture-postcard and the jumble of houses and shops encroaches right up to the Church. But walking across the square and into the Church the atmosphere changes. The place of the Birth is marked by a Silver Star set into a marble slab. This part of the church is Greek Orthodox and the swinging lamps, candles, incense and rather dilapidated wall hangings seem rather alien to our tastes but nevertheless it was moving to be there. Clarence leading us in ‘O Come All Ye Faithful’. Another part of the Church is run by the Roman Catholic Church and is an everyday parish church. It is from here that the Christmas Service from Bethlehem is broadcast to the world.

Friday 24th March

Oh no……last day.

Bye to everyone at St Andrews. To Tel Aviv again and Ben Gurion Airport. Security checks on the way out much more severe.

Last call en route was Jaffa (the biblical Joppa of Jonah and the whale) to visit the Church of Scotland School. It has a very good educational reputation and attracts a wide range of nationalities and local children. Moss local students are Israeli Arabs. The present breakdown of the school by faith community is Christian 60%, Muslim 30%, Jewish 5% and others 5%. Senior pupils gave us a guided tour and we were introduced to local children and those from Russia, Spain, Angola, Japan, Korea, China, Philippines, USA (and more) whose parents are working and living in Israel. All very quickly learn English.

Melrose Parish Church donates its Christmas Offerings to Tabeetha School and it has been earmarked this year to fund an overnight visit by 25 pupils to the inter-faith community of Neve Shalom (oasis of peace). Seeking to nurture peace and understanding and reconciliation. What could be more appropriate in this Holy Land?

And finally

All this and I have not even mentioned………………….

• The meals with Palestinian families in their homes
• Eating out in local restaurants
• Trying Hubble-bubble pipes for fun
• An address from a charismatic MP from the Palestinian Authority
• Young blind pupils at the Al-Shurooq School singing ‘We will overcome’
• St George’s Monastery deep in the arid Judean wilderness, a place apart
• and much more besides

And to end, a huge part of the success of the visit was down to everyone in our lovely group. Good fun and good fellowship.

Liz Mitchell
April 2006